Shoulder season on Mount Hood, Oregon | Meanderings by Mindy Stern

Rolling fog enveloped the road to Mount Hood, Oregon’s tallest peak. It was only 4:00 pm in early November, but nighttime suddenly descended on US 26. The lava-formed rocks on both sides of the highway were deep, purplish red, the color of claret wine. No more fall foliage to delight the eyes. Snow-stakes lining the road got increasingly tall the higher we drove: four feet, six feet, then even taller. This was a shoulder season trip, but it briefly felt like winter was coming. And then the sun came out again.

Earlier that afternoon, passing Boring, Oregon, on the way from Portland, I’d hoped the oddly-named town wasn’t an omen for this weekend trip. Before reaching Timberline Lodge, we stopped briefly in Sandy, Oregon, at AntFarm Café and Bakery, an offshoot of AntFarm Youth and Family Services. Their yummy scratch-made food supports programs training youth for basic employment skills, entry level construction jobs, and environmental stewardship opportunities, and helping elders live independently at home. In the café’s cozy space, its staff proudly described AntFarm’s mission, reminding me of Seattle’s FareStart, which transforms lives by providing job training in food service for people overcoming barriers to employment.

Forty minutes later, at 6,000 ft elevation, we arrived at Timberline Lodge. Ski season would be starting soon, and Timberline’s winter entrance was up, a cross between a white accordion, an igloo, and a Japanese lantern. Built to withstand heavy snow and wind, it shelters guests arriving on foot or on skis. Timberline is Oregon’s only ski-in/ski-out hotel.

Room 110. Photo by Mindy Stern

My jaw dropped upon entering the lobby. Had I just teleported to the twentieth century Swiss Alps? Built between 1936-38 as part of the Great Depression’s Works Progress Administration (WPA), every inch of this New Deal-era lodge showcases art and craftsmanship. Soaring, old-growth beams reach for the ceiling without the help of brackets or buckets – mortise and tenon construction at its finest. Long before the environmental movement, Timberline embraced repurposing materials. The fireplace’s spark arrestor? Snow-chains from trucks. Thick, curved supports for the grill? Railroad tracks. Bannisters? Telephone poles. You get the idea. Each piece of art has a QR code providing background information.

Two young Saint Bernard puppies roamed the lobby. Heidi (10th generation) and Bruno (12th) are descendants of now-retired, senior Bruno, maintaining the lodge’s popular resident-Saint-Bernard history.

Once upon a time, grand hotels partnered with famous chefs to create the best restaurants in the world. Dinner at Timberline’s Cascade Dining Room is a dining experience worthy of that tradition: its wine program, piping hot Porcini Bisque, thick King Salmon with crackling skin and butter-soft orange flesh, were impressive. Back in our room, a turn-down surprise awaited: chocolate mousse.

This trip had been planned at the last minute, and the only dog-friendly room available had bunk beds – not what I had in mind. Our Border Terrier, Muddle, is used to camping and sleeping in his insulated crate with built-in water bowl. My husband, a veterinarian, suggested letting him sleep in his crate, in the car. This work-around landed us a room with a king bed and wood-burning fireplace. Score! The hotel provided wool blankets to insulate Muddle’s crate, and he settled in for the night. The wind was picking up and a light snow fell as we prepared for bed. The lights flickered once. Twice. Soon we were in total darkness. The heavy wind knocked out the hotel’s power. A long minute passed before we heard the low rumble of a diesel generator kicking in. Voila – lights were back on!

Overnight, the temperature dropped and the parking lot became a sheet of snow-covered ice. Waking early to tend to Muddle, my husband discovered the car doors had frozen shut. Lodge staff provided him with hot water to defrost the handles. Oblivious to the weather, Muddle stretched in a down-dog pose, then leapt from the car. The water in his crate hadn’t frozen, reassuring us that the crate stayed warm. Suddenly, a tiny mole dashed across the frozen ground, a brown dot on a white field. Muddle gave chase. Tumbling down an icy hill together, Muddle played with the mole until it scurried off. He returned, tail wagging. A good start to his day.

With a 4,540’ vertical slope, North America’s tallest, this area is a year-round playground for outdoor enthusiasts. Olympian skiers train on Palmer snow field, bikers and skiers enjoy runs from Palmer to Summit Pass. Timberline Lodge hosts weddings almost every weekend, and it’s popular for family and corporate gatherings, booking out way in advance. Shoulder season is an ideal time to visit – prices drop, you can book at the last minute, and enjoy a National Historic Landmark with its own full-time curator on staff. Boring? Not for a second. Mount Hood awaits. Make it your next weekend destination.

Meanderings is an award-winning travel column by Mercer Island resident Mindy Stern. For more essays, or to comment, visit www.mindysternauthor.com.